Madeira, You Beauty!

Madeira has the rare gift of feeling both wild and elegant at the same time. Between lush hillsides, small fishing villages, tropical fruits, and a cuisine that reinterprets its roots, days unfold that feel remarkably full without ever feeling rushed. In the morning, you sit in Funchal enjoying Bolo do Caco and tropical fruits; shortly after, you find yourself among fishermen and colorful boats in Câmara de Lobos; and in the evening, you're holding a glass on a boat while the sun dips somewhere behind the Atlantic.

Madeira is intense. The Atlantic and mountains. Traditional fishing villages and modern gastronomy. Fruits that hardly anyone back home knows. Madeira wine, Poncha, and a landscape that feels like it reinvents itself around every corner. And that is exactly why, on a first visit, I wouldn't try to “check off” as much as possible. Madeira is meant to be experienced.

Our base during the trip was the Barceló Funchal Oldtown and I would choose this exact location again for a first stay. The hotel is located right in the heart of Funchal's old town. What initially sounds like a practical advantage genuinely transforms a trip: in the morning, you simply step out the front door, stroll through town, walk to the market, stop spontaneously for a coffee at UauCacau or a glass of wine, and can easily reach most places on foot in the evening. No major planning. No driving for every little thing. Just experiencing Funchal. And culinarily, the journey begins right at breakfast here. Alongside international classics, there was Bolo do Caco, Pastéis de Nata, and a truly fantastic selection of fresh fruit. The latter in particular is an experience in itself on Madeira. The small Madeira bananas taste intense and wonderfully sweet, accompanied by various passion fruit varieties, Anona, and fruits where you first have to ask: What is this, actually? That is exactly what I love when traveling.

GENUSSPUNKT Tip: Don’t automatically choose what you already know at breakfast. Madeira is perfect for letting your vacation begin on your plate first thing in the morning.

Funchal is wonderful to explore on foot. A walking tour is ideal, especially at the start of the trip, because suddenly so much connects: architecture, history, trade, and above all, all the food and drink you'll encounter on plates and in glasses over the coming days. An absolute must is the Mercado dos Lavradores.

Since 1940, the market has been part of daily life in Funchal and is simultaneously a marketplace, a meeting spot, and a culinary showcase of Madeira. And please: don't just walk through taking photos. Look. Ask. Smell. Taste. The fruits in particular impressively show what the island's subtropical climate makes possible. Alongside different passion fruit varieties, Anona, and small Madeira bananas, you'll find, for example, the Fruto Delicioso, the fruit of the Monstera deliciosa. It looks a bit like someone crossed a banana with a green ear of corn, and when ripe, it tastes somewhere between banana, pineapple, and Anona. Important: it should only be eaten when fully ripe and when the outer segments start to detach. 

GENUSSPUNKT Tip: Take your time. If you "do" the market in ten minutes, you'll miss the very reason you should be there in the first place.

If you're in Funchal and in the mood for something sweet or looking for a culinary souvenir, keep two addresses in mind. UAUCacau captures Madeira in praline form: Master Chocolatier Tony Fernandes works with regional flavors such as Madeira wine, Poncha, Mel de Cana, passion fruit, banana, Pitanga, or mango. Especially well-known is the passion fruit praline, which won gold in a national competition. The chocolates are handcrafted without artificial colors or preservatives – a wonderful little stop and a fantastic souvenir at the same time.

Just a few steps further awaits a piece of genuine Funchal history: the Fábrica Santo António. It was founded back in 1893 as Madeira’s first cookie and biscuit factory and is now run by the fifth generation of the family. Particularly charming: the shop is still located in the historic building, parts of the interior are preserved in their original state, and even some of the antique machines are still used in production today. A definite must-buy is the Bolo de Mel de Cana da Madeira, the traditional Madeiran sugarcane honey cake. Then there are the famous Bolachas and Biscoitos, various Broas, and my tip for anyone who loves gifting edible souvenirs: simply pack a selection of different varieties. Particularly typical are Broas de Mel de Cana, small pastries made with sugarcane honey; the manufacture’s classics also include traditional cookies and biscuits in various flavors. 

GENUSSPUNKT Tip: Don't eat everything right away – at least theoretically. Because both the pralines from UAUCacau and the Bolo de Mel and cookies from Fábrica Santo António are exactly the kind of souvenirs that bring the taste of Madeira right back once you're home.

Just a few miles later, Madeira already feels different again. Câmara de Lobos is one of those places you shouldn't just look at, but truly take in: fishing boats in the harbor, steep streets climbing up, the Atlantic, and this pleasantly imperfect blend of daily life and postcard scenery. For lunch, Restaurante Vila do Peixe is a wonderful spot. Naturally, fish takes center stage here, but the view definitely rivals what's on the plate. 

And then, please: order Poncha. What I found particularly wonderful was that it was freshly prepared right before our eyes. In that moment, you suddenly realize that Poncha is not just some tourist drink. It belongs to Madeira, to sugarcane, Aguardente de Cana, and the island's history. And yes: it tastes pretty harmless. It isn't necessarily.

One of my personal highlights was our private tour with AESTUS, departing from the marina in Calheta. The tour is operated on an Azimut Atlantis 50; the itineraries can be customized individually. On board, there are cabins, a galley, and a sun deck, with snacks or meals available upon request. But far more important to me than technical specs was the atmosphere. The crew was incredibly warm, and everything felt relaxed and easygoing. If you feel like it, you can jump into the ocean for a swim along the way; others simply lean back and enjoy.

And then, at some point, that moment happens: The sun hangs low. Madeira lies behind you. In front of you, nothing but the Atlantic. And you stand on the boat with a glass in hand. Priceless. It's also astonishing how different the island looks from the water. Only from out here do you truly realize how steeply and dramatically Madeira rises out of the Atlantic. If there’s one experience I would repeat in a heartbeat, it’s this one.

I would dedicate at least one evening to modern Madeiran cuisine. A particularly exciting place for this is AUDAX – Progressive Madeiran Cuisine in Funchal. Head Chef César Abreu Vieira takes Madeira’s culinary identity as a starting point and translates it into modern, technically precise cuisine. Our menu was incredibly exciting: Right from the start, Poncha and coastal shrimp drew on two quintessential elements of the island. This was followed by, among other dishes, an interpretation of Açorda with bread from Santana, coastal fish with lemongrass, oxtail with smoked beef heart, mushrooms, and sweet potato, and finally a banana pudding with seasonal fruit sorbet and Torresmo. I especially loved this balancing act: tradition is recognizable, but elevated to a new level. The ambiance matches perfectly: subdued, elegant, pleasant, with exceptionally attentive service. For me, one of those addresses that show just how confident Madeira’s gastronomic scene has become.

And then there are restaurants where you know the moment you sit down: this is going to be a wonderful evening. AVISTA is perched on a cliff ledge high above the Atlantic at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. The view is genuinely spectacular. Sea, sky, and vast open space, fronted by a restaurant that is comfortably elegant without feeling stiff. Chef João Luz champions modern Mediterranean cuisine using seasonal and regional produce. Our menu showcased this range wonderfully: Prawn al Diablo with garlic, chili, and lemon, Avista hummus with sun-dried tomato pesto, mint, and sumac, Black Angus tartare with balsamic, Pommery mustard, and black garlic gelato, as well as pressed short rib. Dessert was an Exotic Symphony of passion fruit ganache, guava sorbet, mint, and lime. Culinarily refined, atmospheric and beautiful, and one of those places you should definitely keep in mind for a special evening. Or, to put it less formally: pretty amazing for a date. And if you’re not looking to date anyone right now? Doesn't matter either. After all, you don't need a special occasion for great food.

It sounds simple, and it's perhaps my most important Madeira tip. Don’t schedule every sunset. Don’t check off every viewpoint. Don’t constantly rush off to the next highlight. At some point, just stay seated. Order a Poncha or a glass of Madeira wine. Look out at the Atlantic. Watch the world go by.

Funchal is a wonderful starting point, but by no means just a home base. The market, restaurants, harbor, Câmara de Lobos, and the Atlantic are all close together, and yet every day feels different. Madeira is a destination where culinary enjoyment isn't just an add-on to the trip. It is part of it. And at the latest when watching the sunset over the Atlantic, you realize: one visit probably isn't enough.

• Madeira’s Wild Side