Daniel Engelhardt at Porporela Novigrad

What changes when a chef from Germany suddenly looks out at the Adriatic every day? “My relationship with fish has become completely different,” says Engelhardt. At first glance, that might sound obvious. Culinarily, however, it represents a meaningful evolution: proximity changes not only the availability of an ingredient, but also how it is perceived. Anyone who experiences fish not as an exchangeable commodity, but as part of the immediate environment, starts treating it differently. This proximity seems to define Engelhardt's new culinary style. When asked “Regionality or boundless inspiration?”, his choice is clear: regionality.

His first fundamental decision at Porporela? “To go completely for a more purist taste experience”, explains Engelhardt. It’s about bringing different flavors together, such as in a main course featuring lemon and potato. “I try to offer a modern interpretation of Istrian cuisine.” Three words are enough for him to describe his approach: “Intense, aromatic, not over the top.” That last phrase in particular is noteworthy. Engelhardt comes from a world where technical precision, theatrical presentation, and complexity were long seen as the ultimate expressions of culinary ambition. Yet he wouldn’t want to miss his time in haute cuisine for anything.

What did he take away from it? “The focus on a high-quality product.” And what did he consciously leave behind? “Overwhelming the guest too much.” High standards don’t necessarily have to mean complexity. Technical skill can also be demonstrated by leaving things out. At Porporela, this attitude can be seen, for example, in the Fuži. The traditional Istrian pasta is paired with truffle and a Malvasia reduction. Here, regionality is understood as contemporary cuisine. The menu also features sea bass carpaccio with lime and ginger, Black Angus tartare with cured egg yolk, and beef tenderloin with a truffle crust and sweet potato purée. The 24-hour braised eggplant with bulgur, chickpeas, and a bell pepper glaze proves that plant-based cuisine isn't treated as a mere compulsory alternative.

Yet it isn't always the prestigious ingredients that leave the biggest impression in a new region. When asked about his greatest Istrian discovery, Engelhardt singles out wild asparagus of all things. “I didn't know it at all before. Small wild asparagus growing everywhere along the roadsides here.” An ingredient that seems almost inconspicuous, yet can say so much about a region’s cuisine. When it comes to another Istrian ingredient, however, Engelhardt takes a firm stand.

Which food from Istria is internationally underestimated? “Truffles, without a doubt.” While France and Italy are firmly linked with truffles in the global consciousness, Croatia is mentioned far less often. In terms of flavor, Engelhardt sees little reason for this: Croatian truffles have an intense aroma and can “compete with the big names”. And so the circle closes back to the first question of the interview: truffles or Malvasia? Truffles, definitely. Although in Istria, fortunately, you don't necessarily have to choose.

When it comes to cooking itself, Engelhardt makes a clear choice: gut feeling over recipes. That doesn't mean throwing precision overboard. It shows how Engelhardt thinks and works, and perhaps explains his surprising answer when asked which dish best describes him. Not a delicate signature dish. Not a complicated composition. “A stew.” Why? “Lots of love in it, a bit of everything, and ideally a little acidity at the end.” It might just be one of the most endearing brief descriptions of a culinary personality.